Spread across steep hillsides that overlook the Rio Tejo, Lisbon offers all the delights you’d expect of Portugal’s star attraction, yet with half the fuss of other European capitals. Gothic cathedrals, majestic monasteries and quaint museums are all part of the colourful cityscape, but the real delights of discovery lie in wandering the narrow lanes of Lisbon’s lovely backstreets. As bright yellow trams wind their way through curvy tree-lined streets, Lisboêtas stroll through the old quarters, much as they’ve done for centuries. Village-life gossip in old Alfama is exchanged at the public baths or over fresh bread and wine at tiny patio restaurants as fadistas (proponents of fado, Portugal’s traditional melancholic singing) perform in the background. Meanwhile, in other parts of town, visitors and locals chase the ghosts of Pessoa in warmly lit 1930s-era cafés or walk along the seaside that once saw the celebrated return of Vasco da Gama. Yet, while history is very much alive in centuries-old Lisbon, its spirit is undeniably youthful. In the hilltop district of Bairro Alto, dozens of restaurants and bars line the narrow streets, with jazz, reggae, electronica and fado filling the air and revellers partying until dawn. Nightclubs scattered all over town make fine use of old spaces, whether on riverside docks or tucked away in 18th-century mansions. The Lisbon experience encompasses so many things, from enjoying a fresh pastry and bica (espresso) on a petite leafy plaza to window-shopping in elegant Chiado. It’s mingling with Lisboêtas at a neighbourhood festival or watching the sunset from the old Moorish castle. Just outside Lisbon, there’s more to explore: the magical setting of Sintra, glorious beaches and traditional fishing villages. Travel to Lisbon to immerse yourself in a European city unlike any other. Whether whiling away the hours sipping coffee on one of the open squares or pracas or rummaging through the boutiques on the winding side streets, there is so much to see in Lisbon. Portugal’s capital welcomes travelers to an old world anew, where historic castles meet modern art museums, and sleepy storefronts give way to vibrant nightclubs. Consult Travel + Leisure’s Lisbon travel guide for the inside track on this European hotspot. Things Not to Miss in Lisbon • Riding tram 28 which has been in use since 1873 • Listening to traditional Fado music in Alfama • Taking in the panoramic views at the top of one Lisbon’s seven hills When to Go to Lisbon June through August is the most popular times to visit Lisbon when the European schools break for summer vacation. If you are planning to travel during this time, consider visiting in June when Lisbon hosts a number of celebratory festivals. Those who want to avoid the peak rates, crowds and stifling summer heat should travel in May and September/October. While Lisbon is busy year round, hotel prices drop significantly from November to February, and the weather remains quite mild, making it a good time for travelers on a budget to visit. DON'T MISS Riding the tram; it’s a great, leisurely way to familiarize yourself with the city. Listening to the sounds of traditional Fado. The music can be heard at a number of restaurants and clubs lining the alleys of Alfama. Stopping by the quirky Aleksandar Protich, a butcher shop–turned–clothing store, where dresses, skirts, and tops all hang from meat hooks.

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